Our big summer trip, week 2 - Croatia Sailing trip

Day 6 Saturday (29/09/07)

Good Morning Croatia! We awoke to a mixed weather day and off to breakfast. The usual hearty affair with croissants, cereal, bread, salami and cheese etc. Only just in the nick of time as they were packing up when we got there.

Packed the bags, and took some photos around the beautiful hotel (on the outside anyway). Off to the harbour, to check in for our sailing trip – finally it’s here! We discovered that our boat was damaged in a storm the night before so we were transferred to a larger boat. But this would be 3 hours later. A real shame as we would of like to look around the town. This would also mean that we would not get to see much of the first island, Krk. So we spent about 4 hours chilling in a bar nearby overlooking the water.

All aboard, once the introductions etc were out the way they served lunch. A hearty soup, chicken, zucchini pancakes and some salad were the order of the day. This really hit the spot. A nice ride there meeting the other passengers and finding out what we have all been doing and where we are from. There are Aussies, Kiwis, Scottish, English and a German guy. 3 hours later we arrived at our destination. Very nice! A pretty marina, we were off in search of dinner. We found a nice restaurant in the old town, with a very friendly waiter and lots of cats! They were all in search of a free feed. (which they got) A lovely feed of fish and shellfish really hit the spot.

Back to our boat for the first night aboard the HMS Albatross. It is a well maintained Danish vintage motor yacht, 29 metres in length with our own cabins etc complete with a friendly crew of 4 to complete the ship. Plenty of space to chill out! We are really looking forward to the rest of trip. Although the 8am breakfasts will be a shock to the system!

As I write this blog entry on the back deck of the boat, overlooking the marina I can’t help but smile to myself, this is what life is about. Soaking up the lovely view, the sound of drunken crowds at the pub nearby (what fun would silence be!) and the anticipation of what is to come. We are really looking forward to it. Off to bed.

Day 7 Sunday (30/09/07)

Good Mornin’ me maties! Welcome to the Albatross. You be scrubbin’ the decks for your rum. We woke up after a sound nights’ sleep in our cozy cabin to a great breakfast spread including yoghurt in a bottle, which was a little weird, but still tasted great! We were greeted by beautiful sunny skies and warm weather, finally!

Next stop was Rab, an island about 1 1/2 hours away. There was so much anticipation. Cam and many other seizing the chance to strip off and sun themselves on the way to the next island. We pulled up in a nice local bay, and off the side of the boat into the water! It was a really nice start to the day. The water was pretty cold but not so bad that you wanted to get out in a hurry. After some swimming and snorkelling, we officially declared that there is not much to see in the water. It didn’t matter we were just enjoying the clean water.

The crew then prepared our lunch, which was a lovely feast of rolled up steaks with rice and salad. Very tasty! We were then ready to bask for a while, swim for a while and head on. There was a snorkel lost before, which we managed to recover after some great spotting by Cam and diving by our Cornish mate, down about 5 metres to retrieve it! Pack up and onto our next stop, Rab marina.

A lovely welcome into a lovely marina. We left the boat mid-afternoon to have a look around this beautiful island. Right next to us a medieval town with 4 lovely old churches and paved in marble everywhere. A real treat for the senses. It was so laid back and quiet, like music for the soul. After some time discovering we were off to the new part of town.

We picked up some supplies, and rested on the foreshore watching the world go by. Some of our pirate mates were walking by, some bicycling by, and some even on Scooters! (Go Agg & Em!) After meeting up with our Cornish mates, it was off to the pub to watch the day disappear and catch up on events of the last few hours.

It was then off to dinner at a famous local restaurant recommended by our captain and the Lonely Planet, the Katabo Rab. We all chose differing meals, Cam choosing the whole Mackeral (of course!) and Nat choosing the Seafood Risotto. Aaron went out with a fish salad and a stuffed beef dish which was very tasty also! A great night was had by all, with service, food and ambience all great! It was then time to wander the streets of town by night, which was very quiet and peaceful. The marble lined streets were very special with the light reflecting off them.

Time to head back to the boat for some rest. Cam had decided to go out to get a few night pictures of the bell tower etc. This night picture below, the marble flooring is so smooth, it looks like the floor is wet, but its perfectly dry! On the way out, a few of our crew were looking for somewhere to have an ale. Cam couldn’t resist! We found a bar nearby, played some pool including a game of triples which was kind of interesting and some foozball (table football). A great way to end the day! Off to bed.

Day 8 Monday (01/10/07)

Awoken again to the sound of tolling bells at sunrise, those damn fishermen getting up so early! We were going to get up to take some sunrise pictures, but Cam decided that he couldn’t be assed! Another beautiful day on the high seas, today we would be covering many miles. After another big breakfast, we were back on the water looking forward to our next stop, the island of Olib for a swim. 1 ½ hours later we were into our swimming togs and swimming over to the island. A bit further than we thought, but worth the serenity. The beach was all marble pebbles, very beautiful. After a small rest it was time to head back to the boat for lunch. Cam made the mistake of wearing diving booties to swim. It was like wearing concrete boots trying to swim! Big mistake that I will not be making again! The boat was waiting for me to board. Oops! But we were on our way with a lunch on the move, as we head to Dugi Otok, a remote island in a large group of islands about half way down the coast. This would be as far south as we head on our boat trip :(

On the way the call was raised, “DOLPHINS!” There were a couple near the front of the boat. They were not really interested in playing, but we spent some time circling to check them out. This area is scattered with over 100 islands and islets dotted throughout the region, which required some skilful navigation, luckily our skipper Alain is an expert. We had to squeeze through a channel only around 50m wide, which was kind of cool passing many yachts on the way. It is truly a beautiful place to sail around with very calm water and consistent winds, although on this day only a gentle breeze was blowing.

We arrived into the bay late afternoon, for some sightseeing around the island before dinner on the boat. So pack the bags, let’s have a look at this remote island. There was a salt lake nearby which a group of us headed up to. We considered going for a swim, only 1 of us actually going in. Some interesting sights and well as the serenity. It is so peaceful out here! It is really appreciated after the craziness that we are used to.

Our captain advised us that there was the white cliffs nearby with an 80m drop to the ocean, where we would be on the most western island of Croatian waters. It is only 150 miles to Italy from here! So we hiked to the top of the mountain, with about ½ hour to watch the sunset. We probably couldn’t have got there at a better time. It was truly special watching the sunset of the water, some very fond memories of home in Perth…

After the sun was gone, it was time to wonder back, but not before stopping off the bar/restaurant for a cold beer and a catch up. Jim and I met a Bavarian guy and his son that were sailing around the islands. They looked so happy and at peace. I am convinced that people that live with the ocean air in there lungs are a happier bunch of people. They always seem so happy and at peace with the world. The dinner bell rang and it was time to head back to the boat for a home cooked meal. We had whole hake (ugly fish but very tasty!), veggies and salad. And the best custard slice for sweets (look how big it is!) It was probably equivalent to 3 normal sized slices. And the captain was giving us information on the area and telling jokes after dinner. After a very tough day, it was time to hit the sack. Cam even resisted the urge to go out for drinks with some of the other shipmates.

Day 9 Tuesday (02/10/07)

We woke up to a very peaceful morning in the bay at Molat. This island is soooo peaceful. What a lovely day. After some breakfast we were on the water again, cruising through some very smooth, clean water. The Albatross dropped anchor about 2 hours later in a peaceful piece between many small islands. We had some time before lunch so the usual swimming group, including Cam was straight in the water to swim over to 1 of the islands. As usual it looked closer that it was, but we made it to the rocky shore and rested before returning to the boat for lunch. It was a hearty affair with soup and some meat that was very tender, although no-one knew what sort of meat it was. Time to head back up to the top deck and write this blog whilst waiting for the lunch to settle and then back in the water.

Cam was only planning to go for a swim around the boat, but after some paddling, couldn’t resist but head to the second island and boy was it worth it! It was some of the best marine life that we have seen so far in our aquatic adventures. After some rest on the island it was time to swim back to the boat. Some of the more adventurous people swam to the third island, we named this the “tri-island challenge”. After some rest time the boat lifted anchor and it was time to move onto our next port for the night, Molat. This is very small town with only 2 bars to choose from and 1 restaurant, so the crew organised dinner on board. We were even greeted by the local cat population which was quite funny.

We had resisted the urge to get too physical and decided to hang out down the pier, stopping off for refreshments and watching the sun set over the harbour. It was very surreal. Strangly the waiter turned us away initially saying that it was food only, then he brought us back saying it was ok. We got a beer and coffee and the best home made French fries. When some of the other shipmates came over they were turned away, saying he couldn’t serve them? Very odd…

Off to explore some of the old part of town. Initially we were struggling to get the vibe of the town as it didn’t have the wow marina ad pretty coloured houses. There was a lovely painted church tower which we made it too. And as the sun set over the ocean some amazing scenes unfolded. With not much too see, we met up with the crew at the bar near our boat to enjoy another coldie.

For dinner the crew had grilled up home made garlicy sausages with mangold (spinach and potatoes) and some salad. Very filling! With some lovely pancakes to top off the meal. Some of us decided to stay up after the meal and have a few cold beers and play some card games. After Nat whipped our butts in Rummy she left on top a few more games followed. And a few more drinks and it had become a full blown piss up! A great time had by all, before we knew it was way after midnight.

Cam pulled out the plum brandy for a couple of shots and some great pictures! Before going to bed we decided to go for a walk and check out a deserted house at the end of town. We found lout later that this may have been a Serbian army barracks and after the war was over they chased the soldiers out of town and stripped this building clean. It is an amazing place and would have been very impressive in it’s day. Whilst walking around in only phone light, we were first startled by a cat sleeping. We don’t know who was more scared, us or it. And then in another room we watched a bat flying around very confused for about 5 minutes, before some more exploring. It was then time for bed. 4am!

Day 10 Wednesday (03/10/07)

We woke up to another peaceful day. The only thing interrupting us was the sunrise bell that seems to be cranked up every day! 6:30 about 1 minute of bells tolling, but all part of the experience. Cam was feeling pretty crap after a big night it was time for another breakfast, and then we were on the high seas again to our next island. We were to cover some big miles today so no swimming today. After lunch back off to Mali Losinj, a lovely port town with a big marine industry. So checked around town took some pictures and had a cocktail. Nat was resting back at the boat while Cam was out taking pictures of the town at dusk. It was really amazing checking around the back streets, with no real structure to the town it really feels like you would imagine a Croatian town to feel.

A nice dinner with the group at a large restaurant near town, Nat devouring some tasty pasta. It was a great feed although a little pricey for the food offered. We then went to a local bar upon recommendation from our skipper. They have a local band playing covers and some local karaoke stars getting up to crank up some tunes. Not a bad night, although very loud. The guitarist was on a permanent guitar solo which redefined the word “unsubtle”. Off to bed about 1am.

Day 11 Thursday (04/10/07)

We were out of port early so we could get to our next beach for a relaxing afternoon at our swim spot. It was a very eerie day with a lot of mist hanging over the island and on the water. Once out on the water, captain Alain spotted some dolphins on the water! You beauty, it really felt like we were on the high seas, although initially the dolphins weren’t really interested in playing. The skipper started to circle the boat.

Mummy dolphin and baby went off to find dad so they get permission to play. It was eerie out in the water today with mist hanging low over the water and the seas were dead calm. It felt like it was just us and the dolphins. Cam had taken a couple of distance shots and was in sorting out other photos when the dolphins decided to swim alongside the front of our boat and Cam missed it! The water was crystal clear and the dolphins were very close to the surface making for a memorable sight. Stuart managed to get some good footage. This was the best photo that Cam got. For many of the shipmates including Nat this was the highlight of the week.

Once we had finished our lunch on-board, we had arrived into Cres island quite early as it was not very nice weather too swim and we wanted to rest on the island. The boat had arrived in port mid-afternoon to discover that the town was at siesta and would not be awake until 5pm. Damn! This town did not have that much too see. The harbour was quite large and strangely built with channels for the boats and paths for people to walk around. Luckily the icecream parlours and caffe-bars were still open. Stop off for a gelato and some pictures around town.

Nat was to rest on the boat, as she has not been feeling well over the last couple of days. Cam had decided with a couple of others to hire some scooters and head to a remote medieval village about 30km away. We did not get away until late, pulling into Valun late afternoon. This is a very picturesque fishing village in a secluded bay. We really felt a world away from the rushed world.

After some photos it was time to hit the road on our trusty scooters! We were back on the road to the remote village, helm 430m up on a cliff face. By now it was getting on dusk but it really made it feel eerie (again?). It had a mystical feel and to see old nonnas dragging sticks up the road and waving hello was really special! A quick look through the village and some photos, it was time to head off.

By now it was dark, so back on the scooters to navigate our way back through the winding roads. We made it back in good time with some spits of rain but it held off for us. Returning about 7:40pm, with enough time to return the scooters and get cleaned up for dinner. The crew had booked into a local restaurant that had a good reputation. What a feast! The meals were huge, including some roasted lamb that we had heard about. There was sooooo much food! It was like a medieval feast that we had been invited to. A great time had by all except Kathryn as she had been feeling quite sick. Even some home made grappa to finish the meal, which was actually quite good! We all headed back to the boat for a chat. Most people were off to bed to sleep off the meal. Jim, Zoe and Cam went to a local caffe-bar for a coffee and a chat before going to bed about 12am. What a great day and a great meal. It was sad that this trip had to come to an end, but sleeping out of a bunk awaits.

Day 12 – Friday 05/10/07

Today was our last full day on board the boat. There was only 2 more opportunities to go up to the crow's nest, and as Aaron and Em had been up there of course Cam had to go have a look! It was a little slippery on the wet steps but made it up and down with no problems (other than a little nerves). Check it out! A lot of people were quite sad that this was coming to an end as it had been such an amazing trip. We motored up to a port called Medveja on the Istrian peninsula for a final swim and lunch. The water here was much colder than we had been used too! There was a bit of diesel floating about in the water which wasn’t too nice, but we all swam over to the beach where we sharpened our skimming skills, Stuart showing us how it was done!

Dieter had found another Sea Cucumber to gross everybody out, they are so ugly! It looks like a big turd. They have no eyes, or nerves. They feed on bacteria in the sand and have some crazy self-defences involving 3 stages. The first is to squirt a liquid out. 2^nd stage is squirting out a sticky substance, with the sexual tones prevalent! The last stage is to crap out there intestines, which is kinda gross but very weird. Apparently this does not do them any damage as it grows back. And the way we achieve this is to bash it (gently) on a rock. Apparantly they were stars on a "Jackass" episode.

After a rest it was time to head back for lunch. The usual affair but still nice. We had our goodbyes to Simon, a kiwi riding everywhere as he was riding somewhere off into the distance. The ship pulled out of port onto our last stop, Opatija. We got in late-afternoon to dead calm seas although the mist was still lingering. Some of the crew had been talking up the Cocktail bar. So we headed up there for some very tasty cocktails by the sea with lovely laid back dance tunes and the sun setting over the mountains. Then it was time to say goodbye to Dieter our biological wealth of information.

It was then time to find somewhere for dinner. So the crew hit the town and found a pizza restaurant where we feasted on pizza, pasta, wine and beer until we could eat no more! And it still only cost about 7 pounds each for everything. Good value! The crew divided up some, to get icecream etc. Cam and Emma had decided to go on the bungee trampolines which was great, although very unsettling on the stomach. 2 days later still feeling the sore muscles! We had gone on the search for some icecream as Aaron has a real thing for it! Some of the other crew had cocktails, but we had decided that was probably enough for today as the crew was preparing breakfast for 7:30am! Crazy! Off to bed about 12:00am.

Day 13 – Saturday 06/10/07

The last morning aboard the Albatross, was a sad morning. But we were all hanging out for a real bed and a decent shower. After breakfast the skipper had made a speech and we had done a collection for the crew, which they were very happy about. It was then time to say final goodbyes to our shipmates. With a bit of a lump in our throat we bid farewell as we all went our separate ways with many fond memories of an awesome week. Thanks to all our shipmates for making our week so memorable.

Chris, Aaron, Em, Nat and Cam were off to the café for a coffee, before saying goodbye to each other. We were on the 11:20am bus to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia for the next leg of our journey. Stay tuned for week 3!