Morocco - Week 1 (Casablanca to Todra)

Well we packed up our gear, put away our contra ban beer and ham and off to Morocco for 2 weeks of African magic. We had decided to go with Intrepid travel for this tour, as travelling around this country can be a bit tricky. They have some good corporate morals which you can read all about on their website: www.intrepidtravel.com

Anyway enough plugging check out the first week of our tour!

Day 17

Off to Morocco today! The fastest and cheapest transfer to an airport we have ever had! 2 euros and about 1/2 hour on the metro and we were at the airport. Too easy! Easy check in and even arrived early. Non-eventful flight to Casablanca. Couldn’t find our transfer driver for about an hour. Eventually on our way to the hotel. Quiet afternoon. Met up with the group, all quite a bit older than us. Doh! Met in the Riad attached to the hotel, (see the picture on the right, check out the detail on the roof!) then off for dinner in a beautiful local restaurant. Very tasty! The restaurant very very ornate and traditional. Had some tasty local tucker! Off to bed after this. A Nightclub downstairs was pumping Moroccan dance music until very early in the morning, thumping through our pillows.

Day 18

Up early for breakfast. Off to see the Mosque. Very amazing place! And so damn big! It is not very old so quite modern, but absolutely spectacular inside. Back to the hotel, wait around for 2 hours, then offered a beer as a condolence from the manager for all the noise etc. But we then had to rush to get a quick lunch at an Italian restaurant. Wolfed down some pizza, back to the hotel to be whisked off to the train station in record time. A nice 4 hour journey and we arrived in Meknes, a nice town down the coast. A lot tidier than Casablanca, and the people seeming to be a bit more friendlier. Checked into our tidy hotel. Cam off for a walk to soak up the atmosphere, with Nat resting at home. Got ready for dinner which was pretty good. Cam going for a tajine and Nat for the Sole fish. Both pretty tasty! Off to bed.

Day 19

Day in Meknes, first off to see the granary, very cool place with lots of history, and some stunning photos! This picture on the left is the horse yard, that held over 10,000 horses... Then the reservoir next door, with water originally pumped up from the well by donkeys. The afternoon was spent strolling the Medina, very cool, first one we had been too. Met a local spice seller who took us on a tour, eventually to his brothers shop but was still awesome. It was arranged for us to have Camel burgers for lunch, yummo! Then off to Fes after some more photos around the place. First time we had seen more than 30 degrees! Got to Fes, heading down the stairs on the way, Nat slipped and sprained her ankle, doh! Really made things difficult for her! Found our beautiful Riad. Watched and listened to the call to prayer from the 365 calling towers. Very spiritual :) Cam went to supermarket to stock up on Water and some frozen peas for Nat’s ankle. Big feast at the Riad. Cam met a really friendly local, Mohammad who could speak many languages and could get anything! Off to bed.

Day 20

Today had a tour of Fes, although very shopping based, still got to see lots of handicrafts. Went to a ceramics place. They really do some amazing mosaics and crockery there. Here is a picture of Cam sweltering in the ceramic oven, what a sauna! Couldn’t resist but buy a piece.

Checked out the fort overlooking town. Then into the Medina. Crazy! Over 10,000 streets and the oldest in Morocco. Went to a food stall had Moroccan pizza, which Nat thoroughly enjoyed!

Pictures of the locals although have to be careful and some of them charge for the privilege. Saw some copper pots being made. Went to the biggest tannery in Africa with some amazing stuff. Picked up a couple of goat leather poofs for when we get back to Oz. Great views! Next stop lunch at a nice restaurant. Then next door to the carpet shop. Saw them being made. Then the pressure was applied to buy one. They were very nice and reversible but 300 odd euros was a little out of our league! Next stop was the scarf and gelaba shop. Very nice stuff there! Of course had to collect a couple of scarves for our upcoming desert adventure in the Sahara.

The last stop which was very pleasant was a herbal remedy shop. They sell all sorts of herbs and spices for many ailments and cooking. After being shown some including magical massage oil. Cam was offered a massage using this magical stuff. Of course that was the sealer! We were very exhausted and medina’d out by then so back to the Riad for dinner and then off to bed!

Day 21

Early breakfast then back on the bus on our way to the Atlas mountains. Stopped off a Swiss style village on the way in the lower mountains for some souvenirs and a coffee. The president was on his way so there was flags and police/soldiers at every road for many kilometres! We were also diverted to the largest tree in Morocco. It is a huge Cypress tree. But we got there and it was dead! Couldn't believe it, has been dead for over 20 years. Still huge but! There was native monkeys there and the usual hawkers selling nuts and all manner of souvenirs for the tourists. This gave Cam some time to try the super-zoom on the local monkeys. They come up a treat!

After driving through some stunning countryside, we were on our way to next destination, Midelt.

Stopping off for lunch at the average side of restaurant we charged up on local fare. Just up the road we stopped off at a former orphanage that now puts girls and ladies in employment and education making embroidery and rugs. Amazing stuff. The embroidery was extremely well done. Although not really our style we could appreciate the work that went into it! Nat had her eye on a rug, but shopping has really taken it’s toll and the luggage maybe an issue soon! So a bookmark would have to suffice.

We arrived out our Kasbar in the valley. It had been restored not long ago, with amazing views over the Lower Atlas mountains. And they had beer, yippee! Nice place although the rooms a little basic.

Cleaned up then off to a Berber village in the mountains. Unbelievable experience! We were welcomed by our local guide and another Intrepid group. This dog was on the village tour with us, and followed up everywhere! All the local kids coming out to say hello and hold hands and walk around the village with you! Unfortunately we were not allowed to take pictures of the locals as they are a bit funny about that. We were here at the end of the day so were treated to a gorgeous sunset. Got to the gorge which was quite large, some more photos then wonder around the traditional mud homes, with one guy even inviting us inside to have a look at his home. So special! The sunset was unbelievable as was the atmosphere around us. We stumbled home in near darkness through a trail in the paddocks, to find our bus home. Back to the Kasbar to have a beautiful meal of salad and the best tajine we have had here so far! And a nice glass of local red to go with it. So many fond memories from today. Although our tour has had some ups and downs, we will take away so much. Off to bed.

Day 22

Today we were heading towards the Sahara. On the way we spotted an oasis, kinda hard to miss as it is the largest in Morocco, at over 100km long! On the way driving through the mid-Atlas mountains, some stunning scenery, following the Ziz river.

Stopped in a small town for supplies. Everyone got heaps of nuts and popcorn as well as the obligatory bottled water. We found a great viewpoint along the way over looking the oasis. The oasis is stunning, full of date palms and crops of mystery grains. Lunch on the way was a great experience. Stopping at this small rather hot town, sitting on the front veranda watching the world go by. Went for a small walk to take some pictures of this house covered in flowering Bougainvillea. He invited us into to have a look at his home. We just had a look inside the front garden area. Apparently his father planted these plants over 50 years ago. They were massive! He was such a nice guy. After feasting on another tajine it was time to move on.

After driving through some cool Kasbah next to the dunes of the Sahara desert. Amazing stuff! After unpacking we were off for our camel trek. Truly inspiring stuff. 1 of our team got a bit dizzy so had to pull out but the rest of us pushed on. After about 20 minutes we parked the camels, then headed up a massive dune to watch the sunset. An image I will never forget... The berbers then proceeded to flog their jewellery and fossils (not more fossils, there is so much around here!) Not to be swayed, they packed up and we were then on the way back to our Kasbah, to rock out! Below is some pictures of the magnificent afternoon we had in the Sahara. Definitely one of our life memories...

We had a nice dinner and then some locals got on there instruments to rock this Kasbah with some local music. Some of the team got up to dance. Very funny! Cam was on official paparazzi and security duty. Suited me just fine! Off to bed.

Day 23

First time in a long time, Cam up before the Sun to watch sunrise and take some pictures. Absolutely beautiful weather and scenery. Very special moment. Packed up the kit and rocked out of our Kasbah back on the road again.

We would of love to spend more time here, but it wasn’t to be. Next destination, Todra Gorge. Along the way we stopped off at a place that had some ancient wells were the berbers and locals used to get there water. Couldn't believe that this guy climbed down the hole then appeard at another about 20 metres along! Back on the road stopping off for lunch at a little cafe/restaurant on the side of the road. Took ages, but we got to meet the King of Orange Juice, Mustaf? He has postcards from people throughout the world that sent them from home when they got back. Truly amazing stuff. It was like an atlas of postcards, even one from Maddington, WA. The suburb that I grew up in. Very cool! So I have promised him a card when I get back . The orange juice was pretty good too and only 10 dirhams, what a bargain! He was a really nice guy.

Next stop was a berber museum built in an old Berber castle, it was a great insight into how they used to live. After wondering around for about an hour, we were back in our mini-bus to Todra. The hotel was OK, the pool was beautiful although a little cold. Cam was in there for a swim. A pretty average dinner at the hotel then off to bed.

Day 24

Got up early to beat the German tourists to breakfast, as they had come through like locusts at dinner last night. But they were already there! Best laid plans.... Did some washing then off to Todra gorge. As it was Sunday the kids were out in force, swimming, and walking the road singing and playing drums. Who needs a playstation anyway? They were having great fun. Scored a free melon from one of the hotel owners and some mint tea. Moroccan people can be so nice. A few more photos and we were on our way back to the hotel for the afternoon.

Cam and one of the other tour group (Lisa) were advised that a Hammam (local baths) would put you on top of the world. After being dropped off we were scrubbed to within an inch of our lives and drowned with several buckets of warm water. Feeling very quenched we were feeling refreshed. Then it was stretch time! Some very crazy stretches by my host it was just what the doctor ordered. Left feeling very refreshed. Just what the soul needs! It was a nice way to spend the afternoon. We were invited up to the other Intrepid groups accommodation in the gorge for a dinner there. It was a much more satisfying experience. Tasty meal and good service, we were then back in the bus to our hotel and off to bed.

Stay tuned for week 2 of Morocco, Todra to Marrakesh!

Cambo & Nat